To keep your drone lighter and faster this is a breast. I recommend you to but the plug with the cap and TVS built in to install on this and not follow they're direction on putting the capacitor on top of the AIO due to shorting out in a bad crash or wrong props backwards the legs tend to short out on the shell of the AIO. This is my second one and plan getting more. Although from the tiny wires to soldier your Rx, beeper, or any other UART is a bit of a pain but manageable with shrink tubing covering the soider joints your good to go. I love the built in BEC for your Air Unit on 6S is a plus but never listed it in the details. I fly 4S and 6S with a throttle reduction of 66 and switches automatically when 4 or 6s is plugged in on betaflight .

I do not have the V2 Pro but it bothers me to see that they carried on with the JST0.8 16Pin connector. That connector is horrible. If you try to shorten it good luck trimming the wire shielding to expose the wire underneath for soldering. Please revise and make this a SH connector

How to get to RX7? Is LED, LED Strip? Can RX7 become soft serial and resource remapped to LED? What about TX1? Can LED be remapped so UART 1 can be used for an ELRS Rx?

I really liked my V1 of this thing,
but these tiny 24awg wires without silicone insulation is terrible.

fine. dealt with the garbage wires.... go to flash BF 4.4... ohh mine is the f7 version... they stealth changed to the dual gyro version... deleted it's existence from all documentation.
and there is no target available for it.

So I'm stuck on BF 4.2...

but really it's these terrible wires all on that dumb plug which is the problem. and then the wires not being high temp silicone... so they melt when you solder next to them...

I tried to connect to uart3 and uart8, but it doesn't work for Matek's GPS :(