HAKRC F411 20A tout-en-un

Fonctionnalité:

1. Le PCB utilise 8 couches haut de gamme de cuivre épais de 2 oZ, qui ont une capacité de surintensité plus forte et une bonne dissipation thermique.

2. MOS adopte une résistance MOS à courant élevé 30 V importée, une longue durée de vie et une forte capacité de charge.

3. Utilisation de LDO de qualité industrielle, résistance aux hautes températures.

4. Utilisation de condensateurs Murata japonais de haute qualité, performances de filtrage élevées

 

Caractéristiques:

Marque: HAKRC

Nom de l'article : HAKRC F411 20A AIO

Trou de montage : 25,5 x 25,5 mm/26,5 x 26,5 mm

Poids : 8,5 g

Poids du paquet : 50g

Taille: 31*31mm

 

Contrôleur de vol :

Processeur : STM32F411CEU6

Unité de mesure inertielle : ICM42688

OSD : AT7456E

Baromètre: SPL06

LED : prend en charge les fonctions programmables telles que WS2812

Courantomètre : Oui

Micrologiciel : HAKRC F411D

Récepteur pris en charge : Frsky/ Futabas/ Flysky/ TBS Crossfire/ DSMX:DSM2

 

ÉCHAP:

Micrologiciel : BLHELI_S (G-H-20)

Prise en charge de PWM, Oneshot125, Oneshot42, Multishot, Dshot150, Dshot300, Dshot600

Entrée : Lipo 2S-5S

Courant nominal : 20 A

Courant de crête : 25 A

 

Emballage inclus:

1x F4126 AIO

4x amortisseurs M2

1x cordon d'alimentation XT30

1x Petit pansement

1x USB Type-C

1x câble USB

1x condensateur 270uf/35V

1x câble DJI FPV

1x Câble 3 en 1 pour unité aérienne DJI O3

1x Instructions

Customer Reviews

Based on 3 reviews
67%
(2)
0%
(0)
33%
(1)
0%
(0)
0%
(0)
H
Hansen Tsang
Good and inexpensive

Works well so far. I have two of them and I am still trying to figure out if it works well with BetaFlight V4.5. It is working well with V4.4.3 though. CPU loading seems to be much higher with V4.5

T
Tyrone Lawson
Good bang for the buck

My new favorite FC. You have the pinout in the box and I haven't had any issues with it so far. I am currently using 4 of them.

D
Duncan Stewart
Good AIO, I made a mistake and burned out another one i guess?

I purchased two, put Conformal Coating onto these board before soldering the pads, mind you I put one small layer near the pads then proceeded to put two more layers on the rest of the boards knowing I will be back to put more on.

I got a Cold Solder Joint on the Negative Terminal, I tried to solder it back on, kept on popping off, I proceeded to put more solder on and it seemed to be stuck, then I tested the FC and it wasn’t working.

So it’s Toast, I tested the USB, toast. So I was able to get my second one to solder “welded” I’ve been flying that for a week, did the same process, but went back and tried to clean more of the Conformal Coating off with IsoPropyl.

I damaged it within a week of owning it, contacted NewbeeDrone and they push it along to HAKRC. I’ve been talking to them for a week, they asked the same questions over and over, I had to repeat myself to them, send tons of photos, while they lectured me on the “three defense” sequence of conformal coating.
Yeah I didn’t tin up the pads first, but the amount of Conformal Coating I put on shouldn’t have caused it not to make a good enough contact?

So I was talking to their “support” email and I just realized it’s not worth it to RMS the board especially since they kept on being vague with their answers.

I got a bunch of their boards, but I do have the most problem with Conformal Coating and their boards and me burning them out when I build or transfer.

What a bummer.

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