Introducing the Whirligig V2 Frame! This improved version is lighter while sacrificing no durability; easy to service while sacrificing no sophistication. Near perfect center of gravity with DJI Air Unit and stack on board. Extremely versatile so you can build it however you like: analog or HD (fits both DJI Air Unit or Caddx Vista Unit); whoop board or 20x20 stack; 3'' 4'' 5'' arms - the combination is endless - even long range light weight build.
Design to work best with 1404 3000kv motors, 850mah 4s and a 20x20 FC and ESC stack for ~ 15 minutes flight time!
The 20x20 used on this frame must use M3 hardware.
Slotted M3 stack mounting holes on the bottom plate
DJI mounts in center of quad near CoG in the NBD DJI AirUnit Standoffs, M3 stack mounts in rear of quad suggested use of wire pcbs for shorter motor wires.
frame can be used without DJI Air unit
DJI Camera Mounting holes: M2 Mounting slots DJI Camera that allow for 10-40deg of cam angle
A single M2 mounting hole for traditional micro cam mounting option.
Carbon Fiber Parts: Body: Top Plate& Bottom Plate with Battery pad Side Camera Plate 3inch Arm set include front and rear arm OR 4inch Arm set include front and rear arm OR 5inch Arm set include front and rear arm
It’s a decent frame, but clearly someone was trying to get fancy with Solidworks. So let’s start there. As someone who designs frames, and 3D printed parts, I feel as this frame tries to be everything to everyone. You can install a Vista, or in my case a full sized DJI air unit. But I get the feeling it’s not best for all of them. Like, the DJI air unit already has issues with antennas popping out. And it seems this frame only amplifies that with the air unit mounting rails. And I don’t even know what’s going on with the TPU antenna holders. And there is no way to take the top plate off without dismantling the whole front camera cage. This is why I started off by saying someone was getting fancy with Solidworks. It didn’t need that cutout for those dog ears to lock the whole thing together. Engineering for the sake of engineering. So, I recommend on a full sized air unit, buy the DJI antennas without the 90deg angle and run them straight out the back. That’s why I’m back on the site, so I figured I’d write a review.
At first I have a relatively low flight time with my Meteor65 Pro. Then I decided to lighten the Pro. I think because the motors (smaller) have a lower current draw the Nitro Nector Golds are really shining. It is at least comparable to a lot of other packs I have. So the capacity is definitely great, just don’t use them in a high current environment and they will work very well.
For tiny whoop racing, I prefer this motor with the hummingbird guts (AIO camera and canopy) on the 65pro frame with 4-blade 35mm props. Close to 20g, phenomenal run time.
Some people at the racetrack (and CIOTTI) call this an "old school" motor.
I usually make my own 180 degree power pigtail, but BETAFPV designed the perfect pigtail for a fair price, had to buy them... I usually don't like BETAFPV BT2.0 pigtail wires, the silicon is high quality, but where you solder the wire right next to the wire is where it always breaks, I don't expect this to change :-(
I would recommend these excellent BT2.0 Cable Pigtails :-))))